
Magazine Issue 62
Lager Lucidity (Summer 2023)
Brewed with patience and precision for the pursuit of pleasure, great lagers are those glimmering jewels that we just can’t seem to stop drinking. Here, we shine a light on the fine art of how to make us sad when the glass is empty.
Contents
Inside this issue
Make Your Best DunkelweizenBy Josh WeikertWhether you’ve got hop fatigue or are hunting some crowd-pleasing flavors—for autumn weather, holiday fare, or any time of year—this dark wheat beer in the German style need not be challenging to brew.
Gearhead: Dead Heads, Shockwaves, and the Search for the Perfect PumpThe beating hearts of a brewery aren’t glamorous and won’t impress casual visitors, but they can do a great deal to improve how brewers do their jobs. They can also make a lot of noise.
Recipe: Kleiner Hund Session IPABy Josh WeikertAmarillo and Simcoe lead the way in this session IPA recipe from Josh Weikert’s Make Your Best series.
Subscriber
Recipe: Swamp Head Tropical VibesBy Nick DunnWith its soft wheat canvas and punchy additions of mango and guava, this quencher became a seasonal taproom favorite in Gainesville, Florida—and won Swamp Head a gold medal at the 2022 Great American Beer Festival.
Ask the Pros: Medal-Winning Fruit Beer with Swamp HeadBy Josh WeikertFruit beers—they ain’t all thick smoothie sours. Out of Gainesville, Florida, Swamp Head’s Tropical Vibes is a bright, sunshiny, highly drinkable example of excellence in the form of a fruited wheat beer. We asked them what makes it tick.
Recipe: Annie’s Olde Patterson 0600 Malt LiquorThis extract-based ode to American malt liquor—and to an old friend—gets appropriately large portions of adjuncts and enzyme to boost attenuation. Serve it cold!
Subscriber
Malt Liquor: American Nostalgia, ExtractedSince adjunct lagers are cool again, it may be time to give American malt liquor a fresh look. Lean and strong, this adjunct-laden product of the post-Prohibition era has the power to evoke simpler times.
Seeking the Cold Truth on Lagering TimesThe lager-brewing tradition is full of received wisdom and rules of thumb about how long it’s supposed to take to condition a beer. In reality, however, there’s no magic formula.
Recipe: Hitzewelle DunkelweizenBy Josh WeikertGreat to brew or drink at any time of year, the too-often-overlooked Bavarian-style dark wheat beer offers crowd-pleasing flavors and looks impressive in the glass.
Recipe: Allagash WhiteOriginally inspired by the white beers of Pierre Celis, Allagash White has risen to become a widely recognized pillar of American craft as well as one of the most awarded beers in the genre—with a combined 14 Great American Beer Festival and World Beer Cup medals over the years.
Subscriber
The Soul of WitBy Jeff AlworthOne of Belgium’s most broadly appealing styles is a reincarnation and a reinvention, inspired by a tradition that disappeared more than 60 years ago. Today it’s enjoyed around the world and ubiquitous in its home country—and in Maine.
Recipe: Vier Sterne Unter Druck PilsnerBy Josh WeikertThis recipe includes guidelines on fermenting a lager under pressure—and you can apply the same guidelines to your own favorite lager recipe.
Your Lager Can Take the PressureBy Josh WeikertFermenting under pressure to make beer faster is an old industrial trick—and it works just as well on a small scale. Here’s what to know about a method that can help you brew more lagers in less time, honing your technique along the way.
Cooking With Beer: Pan-Fried Catfish Sandwich with Kale Slaw and Hot Sauce MayoThis crispy, spicy catfish sandwich deserves a cold lager—with a spash in the breading and the rest to cool off your palate. Special occasion not required.
Recipe: Cruz Blanca Fade Away Red Corn LagerJacob Sembrano, head brewer at Chicago’s Cruz Blanca brewpub, shares this recipe for their American lager—a showcase of Bloody Butcher red corn, grown and malted at Sugar Creek Malt in Lebanon, Indiana.
Subscriber
The American Grain: Elevating Heirloom CornBy David NilsenCorn has long held an important place in brewing across the Americas, from chicha in the Andes to Mexican and American adjunct lagers. Today, craft maltsters and brewers are seeking more flavorful heirloom varieties to see how far they can push those flavors.
Recipe: Good Word Only Memories RemainFrom Good Word Brewing & Public House in Duluth, Georgia, owner and brewer Todd DiMatteo shares the recipe for their subtly roasty, highly drinkable dark lager that can be served from cask or stichfass (or keg, can, bucket, whatever you have handy).
Subscriber
Making the Case for Cask LagerBy Kevin KainBottom-fermented beer, served in the British ale tradition? There’s precedent for it—and the rise in lager interest may be just what’s needed to stoke drinkers’ curiosity.
Toronto’s Society Clubhouse Celebrates Women Who Brew and Drink Great BeerBy Don TseFrom our Love Handles files on our favorite beer bars around the world: The Toronto headquarters of the Society of Beer Drinking Ladies is open to all.
Recipe: 19th Century Danish Old BeerBased on authentic gammeltøl recipes from the 1800s, here’s a recipe for the strong, smoky Danish farmhouse ale—including some suggestions for traditional twists worth trying.
Brewing Gammeltøl, Denmark’s Strong and Smoky Harvest-Time Farmhouse AleTypically, gammeltøl was brewed in March for drinking in the autumn, but the Danish tradition of brewing this strong, smoky raw ale has virtually died out. You can help revive it.
Recipe: Misfit Outpost Subcontinental Jackfruit Rice LagerBy Sarah NadeemFrom Misfit Outpost in Cypress, Texas, this beer celebrates South Asian flavor in the form of sweet, creamy jackfruit, which adds its tropical accent to a light, crisp, rice-lager frame.
Subscriber
Special Ingredient: JackfruitBy Joe StangePopular in South Asia, this hulking tropical fruit with a sweet, creamy flavor may have something unique to add to the conversation.
Czech Lager: The Art of the AddictiveBy Joe StangeWhether you want to brew a more convincing Czech-style lager, or you simply want to borrow a few tricks to shape the kind of beer that seems impossible to stop drinking, here are some elements to consider.
Recipe: Bus Beer Světlý Ležák 12°This reverently Czech-style lager is triple-decocted and brewed with imported Moravian malt and whole-leaf Bohemian Saaz. Green Bench cofounder and head brewer Khris Johnson says the beer “was inspired by a life-changing week spent in the Czech Republic with an incredible group of people.”
Subscriber
Pick Six: For Occasions Exquisite and EverydayBy Jamie BognerFrom New Year’s Eve to breakfast to making new best friends, New Belgium’s Lauren Woods Limbach guides us through six beloved beers that represent excellence as well as those moments that remind you what it’s all about.
Cooking With Beer: Pulled Chicken Quesadilla with Lager AdoboThese crispy, moderately spicy quesadillas are delicious and easy to make, while a splash of Mexican-style lager adds subtle sweetness to the adobo dipping sauce.
Recipe: Incendiary SchwarzbierBy Adam GoetzThis dark German-style lager took home gold from the 2023 World Beer Cup in Nashville, Tennessee, and then went on to impress our blind-review panel. Smooth and easy-drinking, it offers subtly complex roasted malt character and a dry finish.
Subscriber
Brewer’s Perspective: Gold Medal Schwarzbier with IncendiaryBy Adam GoetzWhen the team at Incendiary in Winston-Salem, North Carolina, gave brewer and QC manager Adam Goetz the chance to design a recipe, he knew what he wanted to make. Then it won gold at the 2023 World Beer Cup, and it scored a stellar 99/100 with our blind-review panel. So, we asked Adam what makes it tick.
Flavor Fever: Cracking the Freshness CodeBy Randy MosherThe processes that change beer’s flavor over time are complex, but by understanding them, we can better brew beers built to last—and we can better appreciate them when fresh.
Gather ’Round the Fireplace at Montana’s Mount Powell Tap RoomBy Kate BernotFrom our Love Handles files on the world’s great watering holes: Locals rule at this warm, comfortable, and family-friendly bar in Deer Lodge, Montana.
Recipe: Great Lakes Edmund Fitzgerald PorterMuch-awarded and much-acclaimed, from Great Lakes Brewing in Cleveland, Ohio, here is a homebrew-scale recipe for the robust yet smooth-drinking American porter that has inspired many others.
Subscriber
Make Your Best: Brewing American Porter with Great LakesBy Josh WeikertIn looking for insights on brewing a great porter in the modern American style, Josh Weikert talks to Cleveland’s Great Lakes about the inner workings of the beloved and enduring Edmund Fitzgerald.
Recipe: Finback Crispy TownFrom cofounder and head brewer Kevin Stafford and the team at Finback in Queens, New York, comes their take on the contemporary hoppy pilsner—“a nice balance of new and old school.” (It was also a hit with our blind-review panel, tops in its class at 98/100.)
Subscriber
Writing the Rules of West Coast Pilsner (So They Can Be Broken)By Kate BernotHop-forward lagers are nothing new, but a new thread is emerging that more intentionally marries the great drinkability of a pilsner with the expressive hopping of a West Coast IPA. Could it be the best of both worlds?
Cooking with Lager: Seared Salmon with Sweet Potato–Edamame Succotash and Sweet Corn PureeCrack a craft-brewed light lager and embrace some unconventional fall flavors in your kitchen via this fish dish with bacon-studded sweet-potato succotash and savory corn puree.
It’s a Swiss Craft Beer Garden Party at Zurich’s Fork & BottleFrom our Love Handles files on the world’s top beer bars: In Zurich, Switzerland, the Fork & Bottle welcomes locals and travelers with brunches, barbecues, and plenty of Swiss and European craft beers.
Five Lagers that Brewers Love to DrinkBrewers have warm hearts for cold-fermented beers, and we asked these five brewers to share the objects of their greatest affection.
Direct Fire! West Coast IPA Tips from Russian River, North Park, and Green CheekBy Jamie BognerIn these excerpts from one of our most popular podcast episodes, a few of the best IPA brewers in the business talk about adjusting the mash for dryness, evolving their recipes to keep drinkers (and themselves) happy, defeating the hop creep, maximizing aroma, and more.
Four Picks to Help You Brew Like a Pro at Small Scale (Plus a Really Nice Book)For homebrewers looking to up their game—and for anyone looking to share their enthusiasm with beer-curious people—here are five picks from our editors
Infographic: The Craft Top 50, 2023 EditionBy Jamie BognerIn this yearly update, we plot the moves in the Brewers Association’s top 50 craft brewers by production volume, from 2007 to the present. To simplify the data and make it easier to follow, we fast-forward from 2007 to 2017 and pick up from there.