
Magazine Issue 59
Rethinking the Classic Pale Ale (Winter 2023)
Stepping out of the shadow of it’s bigger and more intense IPA siblings, Pale Ale is overdue for its return to the craft beer spotlight, with new approaches to timeless appeal.
Contents
Inside this issue
Cooking with Barleywine: Deconstructed Grilled Cheese with Toast PointsHere’s one to keep in mind for the cooler days ahead: a fondue-like cheese dish that gets a splash of barleywine and is sure to help keep you warm.
In Los Angeles, the Glendale Tap AbidesBy Beth DemmonFrom our Love Handles files on beer bars we love: L.A.’s Glendale Tap offers a retro feel, 52 taps full of great local beers, and neighborhood vibes.
Love Handles: Diorama in Florence Has the Selection and the SalumiBy Jamie BognerFrom our Love Handles files on beer bars we love: In Florence, Italy, Diorama offers a cozy spot to get acquainted with Italian and European craft.
Recipe: Vervierfachen Belgian-Style Dark Strong AleBy Josh WeikertThis big and complex yet dangerously easy-to-drink ale is relatively easy to brew well—just watch that attenuation and focus on healthy fermentation for a drying finish.
Cooking with Beer: Thai-Style Street Fries with Hoisin, Sriracha, Hoppy Mayo, and Crushed PeanutsAll hail the crispy-fried potato—especially when a splash of pale ale joins the bright, spicy flavors of Thailand in this unusual take.
Ask the Pros: Brewing American Lager with Creature ComfortsBy Josh WeikertIn this Ask the Pros edition of his Make Your Best series, Josh Weikert talks to the team at Creature Comforts about their GABF medal–winning Classic City Lager and the keys to its success.
Recipe: Creature Comforts Classic City LagerFrom the production team at Creature Comforts in Athens, Georgia, here’s a recipe for their clean, crisp, easy-drinking American lager that won gold at the 2022 Great American Beer Festival.
Subscriber
Recipe: Wye Hill Luminous BeingsBy Greg WingetDescribed as “an ultramodern meditation on the relationship between hops and yeast,” this hazy pale ale—double dry-hopped with Mosaic and Motueka, and fermented with Omega’s thiolized Cosmic Punch—won gold at the 2022 Great American Beer Festival.
Subscriber
Brewer’s Perspective: The Origins of Luminous BeingsBy Greg WingetLuminous Beings was practically an afterthought—a mid-strength hazy pale ale designed to culture up some thiolized yeast for bigger IPAs. Yet that afterthought took on a life of its own, winning gold at the 2022 Great American Beer Festival. Greg Winget, director of brewing operations at Wye Hill in Raleigh, North Carolina, explains the method behind it.
Recipe: Ukrainian Golden AleThe defining traits of a Ukrainian golden ale are its golden hue, a relatively high ABV, and a smooth, sweet finish balanced by soft bitterness.
Ukrainian Golden Ale: The Battle for the Fields of GoldUkraine has been on the minds of many people around the world for more than a year now—but that’s not why its national beer style deserves a spot in the global canon. Instead, let’s consider Ukrainian golden ale on its own merits.
Recipe: Is It Cold in Here or Is It Just Me AltbierBy Josh WeikertFor Josh Weikert, author of our Make Your Best series, altbier is the all-around perfect style and the one he brews most often at home. Here’s his own recipe.
Sourcing the Best Honey PossibleBy James NaegerWhether you’re making mead, cyser, or even honey beer, identifying high-quality honey is a challenge. James Naeger, director of sales and special projects at Schramm’s Mead in Ferndale, Michigan, offers some insight into the problems involved and how to overcome them.
At Alaska’s Seward Alehouse, Get In Some Local Beers Near the Kenai FjordsBy Kate BernotFrom our Love Handles files on the world’s great beer bars: Seward Alehouse is a local dive like only Alaska can do it—it just happens to have great beer, too.
Recipe: Oedipus MannenliefdeDry and spicy yet hop-forward, this lemongrass-laced saison from Oedipus in Amsterdam recently took home its third World Beer Cup medal.
Subscriber
Special Ingredient: LemongrassBy Joe StangeExotic but familiar, the tropical plant lemongrass is far from being one of the traditional beer ingredients … yet its flavor and aroma fit right in with the others.
Recipe: Annie’s Three Paths Pale AlePale ale makes an ideal base for trying out the split-batch method and experimenting with the different flavors you can get from one kettle of wort and a single brew day. Following this recipe, you’ll get an American-style pale ale, a Belgian-style pale ale, and a British-style strong bitter—but it’s easy to imagine more variations.
Modular Pale Ale: Explore the Split-Batch MultiverseThere is not one pale ale—they are infinite. For example: There are a few classic types that can be assembled from essentially the same wort based on some key choices. Let’s explore the versatility.
Recipe: Reuben’s Brews Little Fox Red AleFrom Reuben’s Brews in Seattle, here’s a recipe for a modernized take on amber ale that features plenty of hops in the whirlpool and a broad, malty foundation.
Subscriber
Editors’ Picks: Red & Amber AlesWhether they’re smooth, malty throwbacks or hop-drenched progressives in crimson tuxedos, here are some of the best American amber and red ales we know.
Recipe: Lervig Paragon BarleywineBy Mike Murphy“Paragon is our barrel-aged barleywine produced like a vintage,” says Mike Murphy, brewmaster at Lervig Aktiebryggeri in Stavanger, Norway. “Every year is the same but slightly different due to blending, subtle differences, and other variables. We stick to the same base recipe, and the yeast [and] aging do the rest.”
Subscriber
Point of Pride: Brewing Paragon with Lervig’s Mike MurphyBy Evan RailAn American brewer in Norway inspired by English flavors is producing some of Europe’s most sought-after barleywine, with a new blended vintage appearing once a year. Here, brewmaster Mike Murphy explains the philosophy behind Paragon and offers practical tips for brewing your own.
Cooking with Pale Ale: Bacon-Wrapped Goat-Cheese Poppers with Sour-Cream Dipping SauceThis has all the makings of one of the world’s great beer-and-snack combinations—spicy-earthy Mexican flavors and zesty American pale ale.
Pick Six: Burial’s Jess and Doug Reiser Find Inspiration in Flavor and StoryBy Jamie BognerJess and Doug Reiser, cofounders of Asheville’s Burial Beer, share a thoughtful six that have inspired their own personal journeys and shaped the beers that they now produce.
Recipe: Gigantic Mecha RedBy Van Havig“Mecha Red is a modern amber ale intended to be malty and caramelly, but not a sticky caramel bomb,” says Van Havig, cofounder and master brewer at Gigantic in Portland, Oregon. “It’s mildly fruity from hops and esters and finishes with a hint of chocolate.”
Subscriber
The Reinvention of the American Amber AleBy Jeff AlworthA ruddy ’90s pint is reappearing with modernized flavors—and it has a lot to say about the evolution of American craft brewing.
Skibsøl: Brewing “Ship’s Beer” TodayBy Joe StangeFor those willing to take on a dark, low-strength, smoked beer, this historic Danish style may be the way to go. Yet there’s a question you must answer for yourself: How traditional do you want to make it?
Natty White? Behold, Pét Nat + HopsBy Kate BernotCider isn’t the only fermented fruit messing around with craft beer’s most cherished ingredient. In California, Field Recordings’ dry-hopped pét nat marries the best of wine and beer.
The Cider World Is HoppingOne of beer’s signature ingredients is adding interest and depth to one of the world’s great fermented drinks. Here’s how and why some cidermakers are embracing hops.
Recipe: Right Proper SkibsølAs one of the very few commercial breweries in modern times to attempt a smoky “ship’s beer,” Right Proper in Washington, D.C., shares this recipe inspired by the Danish tradition.
Skibsøl: The Smoky Ale of the SeasDark, smoky, and well-hopped, yet low in strength, “ship’s beer” was the daily ration of Danish sailors in the 18th and 19th centuries—and it hasn’t completely disappeared. From written sources of that time, here’s what we know.
Recipe: La Nouvelle American Pale AleBy Josh WeikertAmerican craft beer’s archetypal classic style, updated with some contemporary ideas.
American Pale Ale: The Comeback of the ClassicBy Josh WeikertWith greater awareness of its pitfalls and a few new tricks up our sleeves, the time for a resurgence in beautifully balanced American pale ale is now.
Recipe: Obelisk Black BarleywineBy David CoyneFrom Obelisk Beer of Astoria, Oregon, comes this prototype homebrew-scale recipe for a black barleywine that combines flavorful aspects of both barleywine and stout.
Subscriber
Cocktail Recipe: Tepache en HuarachesJazz Rodriguez of Very Good Drinks shares this cocktail recipe that includes a splash of your own homemade tepache.
Brewing Trends: Barleywine, Looking Good in BlackBrewers may not agree yet on what makes a great black barleywine tick, but this chimeric new “bipartisan drink” is adding some much-needed allure and interest to a style that’s been falling out of favor.
Nat West’s Home Tepache Fermentation MethodBy Nat WestFrom Nat West of Reverend Nat’s Hard Cider in Portland, Oregon, this method meant for your home kitchen makes a relatively strong tepache that can be back-sweetened with pineapple juice and spiced to taste.
All Aboard the Pineapple Express, It’s Tepache TimeBy Kate BernotTepache is the fast, fun, and nearly foolproof fermented drink you’ll want to blend into your next brew—or sip solo.
Editors’ Picks: Beer Trivia, Books, and Clearer BeerBy Jamie BognerFrom a geeky quiz game to the Book of Hops (via an inline filter), here are a few of our recent top picks for enthusiasts of beer and brewing.
Direct Fire: Decoction & AdjunctsBy Jamie BognerIn these excerpts from our special Direct Fire podcast episodes, Firestone Walker brewmaster Matt Brynildson and WeldWerks cofounder and head brewer Neil Fisher tackle your questions about lager-mashing regimes and which adjuncts can pump up the mouthfeel of stouts.
Recipe: 1841 Truman XXXXKFor this glimpse into the past of big stock ale and barleywine, we’re grateful to beer historian Ron Pattinson. This previously unpublished recipe is based on brewing logs from more than 180 years ago.
Recipe: Rogue Shakespeare StoutBy Joel ShieldsBrewed since 1988, when Rogue Brewery got its start in Ashland, Oregon—home of the Oregon Shakespeare Festival—here’s a homebrew-scale recipe for the OG of American oatmeal stouts.
Subscriber
Ask the Pros: Brewing Oatmeal Stout in the Style of RogueBy Josh WeikertIn this edition of Make Your Best: Ask the Pros, Josh Weikert investigates the inner workings of Rogue’s iconic Shakespeare Oatmeal Stout.
Recipe: Randy’s Barleywine Time MachineBy Randy MosherWith the English tradition of stock ales and barleywines firmly in mind, here’s an original recipe from Randy Mosher. Note the options for oak-aging and Brett—but however you brew it, this is one to lay down for months or years.
Subscriber
Flavor Fever: Barleywine of the Old StyleBy Randy MosherBrewing up something big and ponderous, and looking for inspiration? The British barleywine tradition offers more quirks than you might think, including more funk, more hops, and more time.
Infographic: An Open and Shut CaseBy Jamie BognerThe data suggest that while brewery closings have stayed fairly steady as a percentage of overall operating breweries, the rate of new openings in recent years has been declining at a relatively consistent pace.