
Magazine Issue 43
Stout: More than Just Desserts (Oct-Nov 2020)
Explore the wide world of stouts.
Contents
Inside this issue
Recipe: Schwarzwald SchwarzbierBy Josh WeikertWith this fresh recipe from his Make Your Best series, Josh Weikert goes for relatively restrained roast in this dark lager—and you can tinker with it from there.
Love Handles: The Avenue Pub of New OrleansBy Beth DemmonThis welcome respite from French Quarter debauchery boasts an impressive selection of beers and whiskeys.
Recipe: Bent Brewstillery Fi Dem Jamaican-Style StoutFrom Kristen England, grand master BJCP judge and head brewer at Bent Brewstillery in Roseville, Minnesota, comes this recipe inspired by Jamaica’s Dragon and other tropical stouts.
The Popular Origins of Caribbean StoutIt may be counterintuitive, but strong, sweet, dark beers endure in some of the world’s hottest climates. In Jamaica, a low-cost folk drink helped to popularize it. Martyn Cornell tells the story.
Recipe: Burnt City Kveik Minded Hazy IPABy Ben SallerWhen following this recipe based on a kveik-fermented IPA from Chicago’s Burnt City Brewing, don’t leave out the most crucial step: the gjærkauk, i.e., screaming loudly while pitching the yeast, to scare the ghosts away.
Versatile Kveik for the Modern BrewerBy Ben SallerBen Saller, head brewer and cofounder of Burnt City Brewing in Chicago, has used kveik to ferment a range of styles. Here he explains its flexibility, while also keeping its traditional origins firmly in mind.
Recipe: Extract the Juice, Then Drink the BeerHere is an easy-to-brew, extract-based juicy IPA best consumed fresh.
No Rests for the Wicked: Juicy Goodness, Extract-BrewedIn this edition of No Rests for the Wicked—where we aim to extract the most character from extract brewing—Jester Goldman turns his attention toward hazy IPAs as juicy as anything brewed all-grain.
Love Handles: The Muted Horn of BerlinBy Joe StangeThis elegant but cozy neighborhood bar's star-studded beer selection has made it a destination for European geeks and wayfarers.
Recipe: Burning Beard In Praise of BacchusHere is a homebrew-scale recipe for Burning Beard’s spontaneously fermented lambic-style beer. Including a turbid mash schedule and long boil, it’s inspired by the traditional methods followed by Belgian lambic brewers.
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Breakout Brewer: Burning Beard Colors Outside the LinesBy Beth DemmonLike the punk-rock pioneers who inspire them, Burning Beard rejects standard operating procedure and embraces a unique set of values that have helped to set them apart from the crowded San Diego beer scene.
Editors’ Picks: Cream AleThe bright and lively nature of this hybrid style makes it the perfect choice as an American alternative to European lagers. While the name can be more sleight-of-hand than literal, that won’t stop us from recommending five we love.
Recipe: Beachwood American Black AleJulian Shrago, cofounder and brewmaster of Beachwood BBQ & Brewing in Huntington Beach, California, shares this homebrew recipe for a hoppy dark IPA similar to their award-winning Beachwood Hoppa Emeritus.
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Brew It Dark & Hoppy: The Balancing ActBy Josh WeikertDark malts and ample hops intersect at a risky but rewarding flavor zone where few brewers dare to tread with regularity. Here we dig into recipe choices for distinctive, hop-forward black beers that avoid the pitfalls.
Recipe: Iron Dice American AmberBy Josh WeikertIn a world where nearly everything seems to be a pale and/or juicy IPA, here is a welcome change of pace: a depth of fun malt and hop flavors, patently American without being one-note citrus-driven.
Five Stouts Beloved by the ProsStouts are intrinsically tied to craft’s beyond-the-mainstream appeal. From dry and sweet sessionable stouts to big barrel-aged ones and adjunct-laden “dessert” stouts, there’s something for every kind of drinker. But which do brewers themselves love?
Recipe: Randy Mosher’s Black Ice StoutBy Randy MosherThis smooth-drinking, medium-duty stout takes advantage of the cold-brew method for using black and caramel malts.
Recipe: Dyrvedal-Style VossaølBy Joe StangeThis recipe is based on the strong heimabrygg—or boiled ale—homebrewed in the Dyrvedalen valley of Norway’s Voss region. It includes juniper branches, a long boil, and warm fermentation with the increasingly available Voss kveik.
Brewing with Kveik: What Have We Learned So Far?By Joe StangeThe world’s brewers have had a few years now to play with the unusual, high-performing, previously little-known heirloom yeasts from Norway. So, what have we learned about what they can do?
Recipe: Perennial Take 10 Imperial StoutBy Chris KinastThis homebrew recipe is based on Perennial’s dessert-stout riff on a sweet-and-salty pretzel-stuffed chocolate bar.
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Gearhead: Monster Mashes & Tuns of FunAs brewers pursue ever higher gravities for richer, stronger, thicker stouts, something immediately becomes clear: Most breweries weren’t made for this. Here’s a closer look at how breweries are adjusting for huge grists, long boils, and viscous beers.
Special Ingredient: PretzelsBy Joe StangeYou munch on a pretzel, you take a gulp. It’s obvious: Pretzels have always made beer taste better. So why not just add them directly?
Anchorage’s Gabe Fletcher Picks an Elegant & Quirky Six-PackAnchorage Brewing founder Gabe Fletcher has built a national cult following by brewing niche styles with studious attention to detail. In this edition of Pick 6, his selections reflect thoughtful approaches that have influenced his own.
Beyond ‘Roasty’: The Surprising Psychology of StoutBy Randy MosherWe are visual creatures—but color is deceptive. Randy Mosher, author of Tasting Beer, shares insights to help us widen our stout vocabulary.
Recipe: American Throwback Cream AleBy Jeff AlworthInspired by tantalizing descriptions of cream ale from the early 20th century, this recipe combines ideas from both the pre- and post-Prohibition eras—including corn in the grist, dry hopping, and above-average strength.
The Smooth-Drinking Gimmickry of Cream AleBy Jeff AlworthIn this edition of Style School, Jeff Alworth explains how an American heirloom style began as a marketing creation of the Industrial Age—and where today’s more playful breweries have run with it.
The Curious Case of Belgian StoutBelgian stout has its own special history and a distinctive strut. What sets it apart? Breandán Kearney, award-winning beer writer and a brewer at Siphon in West Flanders, reports from Belgium.
Recipe: American Old Guard StoutBy Drew BeechumHere is Drew Beechum’s homebrewed take the legacy of the American stout—largely kept alive these days by our old-guard craft breweries.
Whatever Happened to the American Stout?By Drew BeechumAmerican stout’s unlikely combination of roasted malt and American hops launched a movement and converted many a drinker. So, where the heck did it go? Drew Beechum isolates its elements and makes a plea.
Editors’ Picks: Delta Faucet Glass RinserBy Jamie BognerWant a rinser to help ensure you have “beer clean” glassware at home? Here’s a reasonably priced option tested and appreciated by our editors.
Recipe: Marcus Baskerville’s Homebrewed Imperial StoutThe head brewer, cofounder, and “mad scientist” of Weathered Souls in San Antonio, Texas, shares this homebrew recipe that was an award-winner for him before he went pro.
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Breakout Brewer: Weathered SoulsBy Kate BernotAt Weathered Souls Brewing, Marcus Baskerville is on a mission to earn San Antonio beer a national reputation—and to help change the industry’s relationship with Black brewers and drinkers.
Love Handles: The Brick Store of Decatur, GeorgiaBy Ale SharptonFrom our Love Handles department featuring top beer bars around the world, here is an ambitious, atmospheric must-do for any beer enthusiast visiting the Atlanta area. (Speaking of ambitious—here’s to sketching out those post-pandemic travel plans.)
Craft Malt: Choose Your TerroirBy Joe StangeThese craft maltsters from across the country work with online retailers, making it possible for homebrewers to have a wide variety of unique malts sent straight to their doorsteps.
Recipe: Private Press Base Imperial StoutBy Brad ClarkAt his Private Press blendery in Santa Cruz, California, Brad Clark specializes in barrel-aging high-gravity stouts and barleywines. Here is a homebrew-scale recipe for a big-bodied Private Press imperial stout meant for barrel-aging and blending.
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Bulk Up! Building Beers with Bigger BodyBy Brad ClarkBrad Clark, founder of Private Press Brewing in Santa Cruz, California, gained notoriety for his big stouts while head brewer at Jackie O’s in Ohio. Here, he discusses his approach to bodybuilding for those beefy black beers.
Cooking with Beer: Banana Stout Cake with Chocolate Stout FrostingCooking with the big, bold flavors of stouts requires a thoughtful approach, but the flavor potential is enormous. This recipe explores the savory and sweet potential of this favorite dark family of styles.
Cooking with Beer: Smoke-Grilled Leg of Lamb with Stout-Braised Garbanzo Beans and Herbed TzatzikiCooking with the big, bold flavors of stouts requires a thoughtful approach, but the flavor potential is enormous. This recipe explores the savory and sweet potential of this favorite dark family of styles.
Infographic: Even More Hops!By Jamie BognerDespite historic levels of hop inventory, growers planted 5 percent more hops in 2020 than in the previous year, as locations and varieties continued to shift.
Cooking with Beer: Roasted and Stout-Braised Cauliflower with Charred Tomato DressingNeed a last-minute idea for a veggie side-dish? This recipe explores the savory and sweet potential of an imperial stout.