
Magazine Issue 68
The Expanding Maltiverse (Spring 2025)
From innovative barrel-aging to brewing with rice, smoked malts, and modern chicha—discover the flavors and techniques shaping craft beer’s next frontier.
Contents
Inside this issue
Prague’s Pult Is a Chapel to Pale Lager, Perfectly PouredBy Joe StangeFrom our Love Handles files on the world’s top beer bars: In central Prague, this pub is dedicated to perfect pours while offering a discriminating selection of Czech lagers and more.
Recipe: Jack’s Brown IPABy Josh WeikertOver the years, this recipe has gotten a bit darker and a bit lighter in body, but the goal is the same: to shape an IPA that is distinct from stylistic “neighbors” such as American brown ale.
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It’s Meatballs, Pinballs, and Choice Local Beers at Brisbane’s SaccharomycesFrom our Love Handles files on the world's top beer bars: In Brisbane, Australia, this beer café and bottle shop offers Belgian-inspired fare and atmosphere with a wide range of locally focused drafts, cans, and bottles.
Recipe: Off Color WariBy John LafflerJohn Laffler, cofounder of Chicago’s Off Color Brewing, shares this recipe for their chicha-inspired ale brewed with purple corn and Schinus molle berries, aka pink peppercorns.
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Style School: Get to Know Modern ChichaForget the chewing and the spitting. The Americas’ most important indigenous beer is alive and well today, connecting old traditions with curious drinkers.
Recipe: Radicle Effect Roasted Garlic StoutBy Rich NuñezFrom owner and head brewer Rich Nuñez at Radicle Effect Brewerks in Rock Island, Illinois, here’s a homebrew-scale recipe for the local cult favorite they release only twice per year—four kegs, and it’s done.
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Special Ingredient: GarlicBy Joe StangeRoast us for it, if you must, but we won’t mince words: Garlic beer could be a breath of fresh air.
Recipe: Bayer Theinheim LandbierUsing information provided by brewers Stefanie and Helmut Bayer, we’ve pieced together a homebrew-scale recipe for the Franconian country lager at Brauerei-Gasthof Bayer in Theinheim.
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Ask the Pros: Brewing Franconian Landbier with Brauerei-Gasthof BayerIn Bavaria’s lager-loving Franconian region, the Bayer family’s Theinheim Landbier is integral to their tradition of local hospitality.
Recipe: Heritage Chop Life LagerFrom Accra’s Heritage Brewing, Ghana’s first modern brewpub, comes this recipe for their flagship lager—technically an ale, but cleanly fermented—featuring local maize and cassava as the bulk of its fermentables.
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Grown in Ghana: How Brewers in West Africa Are Embracing Local GrainsBy Lucy CorneIt’s not always a simple process, but independent brewers in Ghana are favoring locally grown starches such as rice and cassava over imported malt, forging an identity for Ghanaian craft—oh, and they’re winning international medals for the beer.
Recipe: One Take HellesBy Josh WeikertBrewing a helles is a worthy challenge. If your process is consistent and your ingredients fresh, you can make this beer sing on command.
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Making It Malty, MindfullyBy Josh WeikertWhen it comes to building your malt bill, go smarter, not harder. Here are some key insights from two award-winning brewers on purposeful malt choices that can elevate beers, not muddle them.
Pick Six: Classically Rooted ModernityBy Adam PaysseSeattle’s Floodland Brewing may be hyper-focused on saison, but its founder’s broad love of beer inspired this collection of favorites that span modern interpretations of lager, pale ale, cask ale, and—of course—saison.
Recipe: Eckert Kristina’s Challenge Pale AleBy Jim EckertWith a gluten-free grist of 100 percent rice malt, this homebrew recipe comes from Jim Eckert, the rice-malting pioneer who founded Eckert Malting & Brewing in Chico, California.
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Malted Rice Is on the RiseBy Joe StangeNew research points toward much greater potential for rice malt in brewing—with varieties that provide color, character, and brewing specs that aren’t so different from barley.
Brewing with the Farmer’s MaltIn centuries past, much of European brewing happened on the farm—and the choice of what to brew was as pragmatic as what to grow. With insights that could inform your next farmhouse ale, Lars Marius Garshol shares some truths about what those farmer-brewers planted, malted, and put into their beers.
Recipe: Spydeberg Farmhouse Oat Ale 1779Based on a description from Norway in the late 18th century, this recipe represents the practicality of local farmers at the time—and the grist is 100 percent oats, which would’ve been malted in a smoky kiln.
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Recipe: Von Ebert Volatile SubstanceBy Sam PecoraroThis award-winning Northwest IPA is a flagship for Von Ebert in Portland, Oregon, with a berry-forward hop flavor driven by lots of Mosaic, plus Simcoe and Strata in the dry hop.
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Ask the Pros: How Von Ebert’s Volatile Substance Became a Stable LiquidOne of the best-loved IPAs in Portland, Oregon, is the product of careful evolution and the intentional embrace of particular hop flavors. Here, Von Ebert brewmaster Sam Pecoraro shares the beer’s inner workings.
The Porter in Atlanta Has a Long Bar and Longer List of BeersFrom our Love Handles files on the world’s great beer bars: This popular pub in Atlanta’s Little Five Points welcomes all comers with inventive food, 60 taps, and a bar program twice nominated for a James Beard award.
Recipe: Barrique Fritz Steam BeerFrom Barrique Brewing & Blending in Nashville, Tennessee, head brewer Spencer Longhurst shares this recipe from an Anchor Steam–inspired collab brewed with their friends at Von Trapp in Stowe, Vermont.
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California’s Uncommon: A Steamy Story from the Old WestBy Jeff AlworthA type of beer peculiar to American history has managed to survive, if not always thrive, as this New World style steams into its third century.
Brewer’s Perspective: The Magnanimous Approach to Brewing Stout Bound for BarrelsMagnanimous Brewing in Tampa has built a strong local following for its big-flavored beers, including its barrel-aged imperial stouts. Here, founder and brewer Mike Lukacina shares some thoughts behind their ever-evolving base stout meant for aging in whiskey casks.
Five on Five: Stouts Beloved by the ProsFrom sessionable milk stout to silky barrel-aged sippers, here are five brewer favorites certain to satisfy.
Editors’ Picks: Strain GainInnovation in the fermentation space shows no sign of slowing, as today’s yeast suppliers continue to expand the brewing world’s access to novel and functional yeast varieties—and delivered in better shape than ever before. Here’s a handful of yeast-related developments piquing our interest.
Recipe: Revolution Straight Jacket, DeconstructedBy Marty ScottThe team at Revolution in Chicago blends two threads of barrel-aged barleywine to produce their heralded Straight Jacket. Here’s a recipe for one of those threads, plus all the info you need to make the other one—or to make an unblended version.
Bound for the Barrel: Brewing Big Beers Meant for Oak-AgingBy Kate BernotThe world’s best oak-aged beers begin with careful hot-side considerations. Here’s how some of today’s leading brewers design stouts and barleywines to maximize success inside the barrel, and beyond.
Recipe: Annie’s Capitol Corridor Session PorterFrom award-winning homebrewer Annie Johnson, this partial-mash recipe for a lightweight porter—at 3.5 percent ABV—demonstrates how you can pack plenty of malt flavor into a low-strength beer.
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Brewing the Lighter DarknessRich in malt flavor yet light in strength and easy to drink, lower-ABV stouts, porters, and other dark beers represent a wide-open playground for brewers at any level.
Kernel Knowledge: Get to Know Your Malts More IntimatelyBy Randy MosherFrom chomping on grains to hot steeps and running the grains through an espresso machine, Randy Mosher offers some simple tips and tricks to better evaluate your malt—and to improve your flavor imagination.